Creating Flawless Foundation

The secret to creating a flawless foundation base firstly consists of perfect skin preparation.

Yep there I go again, talking about skin.  But its 100% truth.  The better the skin and the better its prepared, the better your foundation will look and last.

Skimming over your skin prep will give you an uneven foundation that won’t last, will require multiple touch-ups and will end up looking cakey. Imagine the Mona Lisa was painted on some rough dodgy surface, do you think it would still be here today?.

All of my clients must arrive with cleansed, moisturised skin.  I then prepare the skin for skincare.  I start with using micellar water.  Micellar is a gentle non-washable cleanser.

Micellar is not your daily cleanser and it shouldn’t replace anything in your skincare regime, but that’s another blog entirely… 

I analyse the skin, firstly checking to see if any gentle exfoliating gels are required, then apply toner, serums and moisturiser to suit my clients individual needs.

I then assess the skin to see if the primer is needed.  Contrary to what advertising campaign’s make you believe, not everyone’s skin needs a primer.  Your skincare is actually your primer! A primer should be used to help correct or enhance the skin e.g. minimizing pores, combat redness, mattifying oily skin, adding illumination, etc.  Don’t just start waking on loads of primer that doesn’t really have a purpose for you.

Next is the foundation.  My absolute favourite method is to use a combination of brush and sponge. The foundation brush I love is the Designer Makeup Tools Rounded Synthetic Buffer Brush.  This brush has a rounded top and is dense in bristle mass. Synthetic brushes are best for wet products.  I like to apply a light veil of foundation with my brush all over the face using a stippling motion.  Next using a damp beauty sponge, I like to pick up a little more product and bounce and roll the foundation over the entire face.  By starting out light, you can build your foundation to the desired coverage.

Remember, more foundation does not mean it’s going to last longer.

Using a combination of the two techniques, gives a beautiful flawless finish, without looking thick and cakey.  

Finish by concealing areas only as needed and set with your favourite powder.  I love powders that are colourless or have minimal colour. Powders full of colour can change the colour of your beautiful laid foundation.  I love the Nars Light Reflecting Setting Powder, RCMA & Ben Nye Colourless Powder and the Inglot Sport Stage & Studio Powder.

Makeup is NOT photoshop!

Don’t be fooled into thinking that everyone on social media has amazing flawless skin!

Unfortunately, it’s becoming ‘the norm’ to edit photos. From removing wrinkles, smoothing skin texture, changing eye colour, the list is endless.

Have you ever seen a before and after photo where the clients scars, raised acne, wrinkles and fine lines have miraculously disappeared in the after shot?  Believe me, this is not the work of a makeup brush or the artists mad skills, but more like “ALAKAZAM’ some great iPhone app skills.   

The constant editing of images is building unrealistic expectations from our clients (of all ages) and it saddens me that there are so many artists heavily editing their work and misleading potential clients into what is achievable.

Dark under eyes, pigmentation, non- raised skin marks and discolouration can be corrected and disguised, but any texture on the skin will not just disappear into thin air. Skin texture cannot be removed. 

Whilst makeup can still create amazing before and after results, I tell all of my clients that your makeup will only be as good as the skin its sitting on top of.  If you struggle to even wash your face, remove your makeup at night, and use supermarket grade skin care, then please don’t expect that the makeup artists brush will have some crazy Harry Potter wizardry.

If you want to see real unedited work, then follow makeup artists who don’t use these filtering tools on their photos.  Once you’ve seen the editing you won’t be able to unsee it! Signs of edited work are ultra-smooth skin with zero pores, no lines, insanely good before & after photos, fuzziness or shadowing, areas of the face blending into others, blurriness in the eyeshadow and brows, and every single person’s face looking exactly like the last one posted!

If you want your makeup to look amazing then please do yourself a favour, invest in quality professional skincare with active ingredients. Have regular skin treatments, use SPF daily and stay out of the sun.  AND always take your selfies in great light, it really does work!  

Please don’t put crazy high expectations upon your makeup artist.  We go into every job with the very best of intentions, and that’s to make our clients look and feel beautiful.

Have you ever heard anyone say “I really regret looking after my skin”?…

What’s Your Holy Grail?

Ok, so I’m not talking about trekking all over Nazi-Germany like Harrison Ford in search of the Holy Grail…well in my case, maybe…

I think most people who have any type of skin care or makeup routine have at least one holy grail product that they couldn’t live without, that product that they’d take to a desert island.

Mine is a strange one…

I was unfortunately or fortunately blessed with the oiliest skin on this planet! I have tried oil free, I’ve tried oil, I’ve tried primers, I’ve tried powders, blotters, you name it, I’ve tried it.

So about a year ago I went on the hunt yet again to stop the oil slick. I recall sitting there one night googling until all hours of the morning, reading blogs, reviews, watching You Tube, then voila I hit the jack pot.

Girls in the USA that were suffering like me where using a product called Phillips Milk of Magnesia. I thought to myself what on earth is this Milk of Magnesia you speak of. Well after some research I found that its main ingredient magnesium hydroxide was actually a natural laxative that had been been around since 1800’s, first used by Sir James Murray as a fluid magnesia preparation of his own design to treat the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, the Marquis of Anglesey, of stomach pain.

Can you imagine putting a laxative on your face, but I though what the hay, if you can drink this natural product, why on earth couldn’t you put it on your face? Can you imagine what the Lord Lieutenant would be thinking…?

So off I went again on a hunt, in and out of Pharmacies, to find that it’s no longer sold in Australia. I was left feeling totally defeated and thoughts crossed my mind that I really needed to move to the USA!

Anyway, long story short I found an online supplier and had it shipped immediately.

So every day, once I complete my skincare routine, I apply only a few small drops of this milky liquid to the palm of my hand, and work it all over my face, patting until absorbed and blended. Then I go ahead with my makeup routine.

I use this product as a primer and it keeps my makeup in place all day long. I do still get some oil throughout the day, but it takes at least 6 hours for this to start to happen, not the usual half an hour.

I also found that prior to using this marvellous preparation, that many foundations would oxidise on my skin due to the high level of oils on the surface and on some occasions changing the colour of the foundation leaving me looking like an Oompa Loompa (very orange!)

So there you have it, not your usual must have moisturiser or mascara, but a laxative for the face!

Please share your Holy Grail products no matter how weird they may be.
Until next time…
Jane xo